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This is particularly important when the inner command to execute is an
alias.  Aliases throw 'eshell-replace-command' too, so we want to do
this in two phases: first, replace the "sudo"/"doas" with a
let-binding of 'default-directory', and then later, let the alias code
do its own replacement (bug#68074).

* lisp/eshell/em-tramp.el (eshell/sudo, eshell/doas): Use
'eshell-replace-command' to wrap the inner command.
* test/lisp/eshell/em-tramp-tests.el (mock-eshell-named-command):
Remove.
(em-tramp-test/sudo-basic, em-tramp-test/sudo-user)
(em-tramp-test/doas-basic, em-tramp-test/doas-user): Catch
'eshell-replace-command'.